Our hike starts from the Palafavera car park, close to the chairlift station. After walking briefly towards Zoldo, we take the forest road leading up to Malga Pioda, following CAI trail 564. The first section climbs through the woods with several bends, with a few shortcuts cutting across the road, before the landscape gradually opens up.
From Malga Pioda, the route continues along trail 556 towards Rifugio Coldai – Adolfo Sonino. The signs indicate about 50 minutes, although in our opinion this may feel a little optimistic. The trail now becomes steeper, climbing through sparse trees, grassy slopes and narrower sections, gaining elevation with wide turns.
As we approach the upper part of the route, the views become increasingly impressive. Looking east, the Pelmo stands out in the foreground, while the Sorapis and Antelao appear in the distance. The final stretch, steeper and more gravelly, leads to the cableway arrival point and then shortly to Rifugio Coldai, at 2135 metres.
From the hut, the most scenic part of the hike begins. The trail climbs behind the building towards Forcella Coldai; the last section before the pass can be slippery because of loose soil, so careful footing is needed. Once at the saddle, Lake Coldai suddenly appears below: small, bright and beautifully framed by the Dolomite landscape.
We descend carefully towards the water, paying attention to polished rocks and unstable ground. Lake Coldai feels like a true Dolomite gem: quiet, precious and perfectly set beneath the massive presence of Monte Civetta.
Beyond the lake, we climb the opposite side of the valley, crossing a northern balcony with views down towards Alleghe and its lake. The route then continues towards Forcella Col Negro, with a few ups and downs before reaching the most memorable viewpoint of the day: the extraordinary view of the North-West Face of Monte Civetta.
Known as the “Wall of Walls”, this legendary face is overwhelming. It rises like a vast Dolomite fortress, severe, vertical and deeply tied to the history of alpinism. From here, the panorama is not simply beautiful: it is powerful, dramatic and unforgettable. In the distance, the Rifugio Tissi can also be seen, but we return along the same route, back to the lake, the hut and finally Malga Pioda.
A long and rewarding hike where the climb from Palafavera builds step by step: first the hut, then Lake Coldai, and finally the breathtaking encounter with one of the most iconic walls in the Dolomites.
Hike completed by Federico and Beatrice on August 9, 2026.
